Okay, so, the other day, I went out to Leo Carrillo to catch some waves. I heard the surf report, and it sounded pretty decent, so I figured, why not? I loaded up my board and headed out early in the morning.
When I got there, the parking lot was already kinda full. Seems like everyone else had the same idea. Found a spot after a little bit of circling, though. I suited up, waxed my board, and hit the beach.
Checking the Waves
The first thing I always do is just watch the waves for a few minutes. You know, get a feel for the sets, the timing, where the best peaks are forming, that kind of stuff. It looked like a solid swell, not too huge, but definitely some rideable waves out there. There were already a bunch of people out, but it didn’t seem too crowded.
Paddling Out
I paddled out, and man, the water was a little chilly at first, but you get used to it. It took a bit to get past the break, but once I was out there, it was pretty sweet. Sat on my board, just bobbing around, waiting for a good one.
- Waited for what felt like forever, then I saw a nice set coming in.
- Positioned myself, started paddling, and… I missed it. Ugh.
- Paddled back out, a little frustrated, but that’s how it goes, right?
- Caught a few smaller waves, nothing too epic, but still fun.
- Then, finally, I got a good one. Dropped in, made the bottom turn, and rode it all the way in. Felt great!
Wrapping Up
I stayed out for a couple more hours, catching a few more waves here and there. The sun was starting to get pretty high, and I was getting tired, so I decided to call it a day. Paddled back in, packed up my stuff, and headed home.
Overall, it was a pretty good session. Not the best waves I’ve ever had at Leo Carrillo, but definitely worth the trip. I was stoked to get out there and enjoy the ocean. Can’t wait for the next swell!
